PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION
As the pipes are lowered into a tub of water the water displaces air out through the tubes at the top which inflates the bubbles. The volume of the bubble is easily controlled/measured by how far the tubes are lowered into the water. An indicator (at the top left of the pic) shows the volume in litres, but since I took this picture I've changed the scale to read the height in cm.
To get good reproducibility the loops should be as near as possible to identical - not just dimensions but also material and surface roughness which will both affect the amount of juice held by the loop. Also every bubble should be blown from a clean loop. I tried all sorts of tubing, but cutting identical ends proved problematica…Read more >
When using 'Joy' detergent I found that the best recipes seemed to use more detergent than the recipes I'd seen published for 'Dawn'. I wondered whether this meant Dawn was inherently 'better' or that maybe it was just more concentrated. So I decided to measure the concentrations of a selection of detergents. In the end I sampled 9 from USA and 2 from UK.
For each detergent I weighed two samples and then dried them to constant weight to determine the concentration, the 'percent solids'. Because detergents dry to a waxy solid I absorbed the samples onto paper towel to avoid the possibility of water droplets getting trapped. (see pic)
I also weighed a 250ml sample of each detergent to get the density, so I could report both the percent solids…Read more >
I have used J-LUBE Powder with great effect, How does J-JELLY differ if at all ?.Read more >
On and Facebook, there has been a resurgence of discussions about whether Dawn Pro (both versions) has changed for the worst. In those discussions, a few people have reported good results with Dawn Ultra 3x and also Dawn Platinum. Intrigued by a post from former Guinnes World Record Holder Megan on SBF about her shootout, I quickly mixed up some 20:1 BLM-based juice with 2017 Dawn Manual Pot and Pro and Dawn Ultra 3x (classic scent and blue color).
Both mixes started with:
- 3520 g tap water
- 176 gr detergent
- 25 g blm
- 22 gram 5% citric acid solution
The goal was to have pH 7.6 juice.
The BLM was added to the water and the jugs were steadily rocked back and forth until the BLM was incorporated fully (no visible blobs).
The Dawn Manual Pot and Pan mix…Read more >
As I try to find simple indoor methods for people to study the thickness of their soap films and strength of their detergents and surfactant mixes, I am playing with a lot of setups -- trying to find simple equipment that yields similar color profiles to the ones that I get with my tri-strings (which are so reliable and consistent). There have been some surprises along the way -- such as bubbles being thicker when created by sweeping a hoop from low to high to create a bubble as compared to when sweeping the hoop horizontally.
After exploring various hoops and small tri-strings and the longevity setup (all of which work) I have been finding simple small plastic wands -- the ones that come in 6 or 8 ounces bottles of bubble juice -- to be v…Read more >
About a year or so ago, I performed a series of video shoots documenting the colors typical of different dilutions of water and Dawn Pro. In order to make sure that the videos were documenting differences in the solution and not differences in lighting or weather or equipment, all videos were shot in the same location at the same time of day with the same lighting. I shot every juice on multiple occasions and examined the videos and found that the profiles were highly consistent. One could easily identify the solution from the pictures. These were all done with tri-string wands and the profiles were quite consistent across loops sizes as long as the loop material had reasonable capacity.
Unfortunately, these profile videos require certain c…
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I've had the ingredients for RAD for a while but had little time to do any bubble testing. Some decyl glucoside (a mild surfactant that Rick has found to improve RAD 1.0) arrived yesterday. It rained a little this morning and there was some decent humidity (88%). So, diluted some RAD 1.0 concentrate that I had mixed up six days ago.
NOTE: The original article title had Decyl Gluconate in it -- the additive was decyl glucoside. Oops!
I diluted two batches. Both had 500 ml RAD 1.0 concentrate and 500 ml of tap water. To one batch, I added 3.5 grams (was supposed to be 3.0, but I goofed) of decyl glucoside.
Both batches averaged over 10 bubbles per dip (and frequently got more) with my handy dandy small plastic wand.
I headed outside with two 30" …Read more >
People have periodically mentioned Johnson & Johnson Baby Shampoo as a possible bubble juice ingredient over the years. I did a little experimenting when I started out but wasn't impressed.
Recently, Rick Findley and I have been discussing his RAD formulation and the possibility that J&J baby shampoo might be a useful additive.
I was testing some RAD 1.0 the other day. I made some nice bubbles, but the film is not as forgiving as Dawn-based solutions. I recalled that Rick had mentioned baby shampoo in a past discussion. I decided to add a little and see what would happen.
Yesterday, I had a few minutes to do some bubbling. The conditions were ok but not great. I didn't have time for a formal test or to set up a camera. I made some bubbles wit…Read more >
For quite a while, the Rayon Fishish mops available at Home Depot were one of the preferred materials for makers of giant bubbles. Then in 2014, the construction of those mop heads changed. Instead of being made from a single 100+yard length of yarn, they deconstructed into lengths of 40 inches.
It was then discovered (after much gnashing of teeth) that a RubberMaid Professional mop made of the same rayon yarn was available through Walmart with the old construction style but a different model number. Back in March, it was brought to our attention that this same mop is also available via some other sources (notably Amazon).
Here are some pictures submitted by wiki member Meredith Keebler. We thank her for sending these along.Read more >
I like to show my construction 'failures' as well as successes here. This is a good example.
I made a garland of these links about 3 yrs ago as a sort of proof of concept. I wanted to see how a 'composite' garland could perform - one with top-strings that were much heavier than its bottom-strings. To accomplish this I used the same material, diamond braid cord, but treated the tops and bottoms differently. Both started out with coring, boiling, and washing. The tops were soaked in sodium carbonate. Bottoms were very harshly bleached and abraded. Both were dyed in the same batch. It was interesting to see how differently the dye took.
The results were very good! But not good enough to justify all the effort. I tested it against one made of 3x…Read more >
Hello fellow bubble heads! I've been meaning to post this for quite a while now and since there doesn't seem to be any shortage of requests for the recipe, here goes... For the record (no pun intended) this is the concentrate that I sent to Gary Pearlman, for use during his (successful) Guinness World Record attempt. It resulted in the creation of his monstrous "largest free floating" outdoor bubble, which measured nearly 3400 cu. ft!
4 cups Dawn Professional, Manual Pot and Pan Detergent
1 g. PEO (WSR 301)
2 teaspoons 91% isopropyl alcohol (chilled in the freezer)
1 oz. (Measured by volume, not weight) Surgilube
I started with the detergent in my mixing container, slurried the PEO with the alcohol and stirred that into it, then …Read more >
Hey fellow bubblers,
Wanted to stop in and say a quick hello and an early seasons greetings. I apologize that I've not been on it quite some time, nor have I posted many of the things I've wanted to post. I haven't forgotten about this community - not one bit! I look forward to more experimentation and bubble making in the upcoming year.
2015 has been a very intense roller coaster of a year, and things have just been too busy to even blow a bubble!
I look forward to seeing all of your posts and trying some new recipes in the new year!
All the best!Read more >
When making BLM by the traditional microwave method, I've always done what I could to avoid letting the semi-hardened over-cooked J-Lube sticking to the sides of the bowl get into the finished concentrate. I mainly just avoided scraping this stuff into the bowl as I continued with the process.
Inevitably a few pieces would make it into the mix anyway. I could see them as I poured the BLM into clear squeeze bottles and sometimes saw ghosts of them in the bottles themselves. But after a week or so they were no longer visible and I never noticed them as I dispensed the concentrate. The only inhomogeneous thing I'd notice was that the last ounce or two was thicker and more difficult to squeeze out. I assume these were those clumps settling and …Read more >
This post is a continuation of: Tap vs. Distilled: Round 1.
Frustrated by the immediate findings in Tap vs. Distilled: Round 1, I decided to run another test in parallel, this time testing my guar hydration technique with two additional solutions. Edward has noted in several places that this is the most common issue with sludge. Based on the instructions in the Basic Mix page, I believed my hydration technique to be adequate, but thought that for any testing to be accurate going forward, I better get a handle on exactly how much agitation and attention I should be spending with each test batch to ensure that I wasn't confounding my own data by inadequately hydrating my guar.
Mix two guar solutions as per the recipe and procedures on Tap vs. …
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I spent a small portion of the weekend running some tests using my tap water and distilled water in otherwise identical batches, as Edward suggested.
So far, findings are rather inconclusive. I was hoping for a conclusive "calcium rich hard water is the cause of sludging" indication, but have instead found what might, with further testing, turn out to be the opposite. Hopes aside, I'll continue my testing to the best of my abilities to fully prove or disprove my hypothesis, as any result that furthers our knowledge is a good result!
I used the basic mix steps for preparation here, but Edward has suggested that the quickest mix method is likely the most widely used method. I will be using that method in future tests.
- 1L of water (separate samp…
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It seems that a number of bubble juice brewers on the forum have attempted to mix guar juice using one or more of the recipes posted and have run into sludge issues. It is possible that this is due to failure to follow the steps as listed for the given recipe, but I've witnessed a case first-hand where steps were followed exactly only to have sludge form hours after brewing. I believe that the variation in results may be due in part to variations in water hardness between the locales of those brewers. In the upcoming weeks, I'll be doing some testing to verify whether my hypothesis that hard water (specifically due to calcium hardness) causes guar juice to develop sludge is verifiable, and if so, at what concentration calcium becomes a pro…Read more >
I've found a few more practical uses for hot glue in building bubbling cords. I've used it before to join the ends of diamond braid cotton for novelty garlands like my cheerio bubbler and for some prototype loops for a heartstrings garland.
I've also found it useful for forming connections in what I call grinner (a.k.a. denture) garlands that use a thin and easily twisted line to connect the loops rather than swivels. I like using Dacron fishing line to do the whippings and make the connections. The best and worst thing about this line is that it's difficult to knot. With something like cotton, if you accidentally make a knot while you're using the garland, it can be more or less permanent. It hasn't happened to me yet, but I worry about th…
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The recipes I've used to date have all been based on the Basic Mix recipe, and regardless of how much I stir, how hot the water I use is, or the amount of guar gum used, I always end up with about an inch of sludge in the bottom of my container. I've prepared about 10-12 batches all using the same recipe with variations in temperature, agitation level, hydration time, etc. and always end up with the same sludgey result.
The juice produced works relatively well despite the sludge, but the bubbles always seem to be lacking the reported self-healing and lifespan of the guar juice described in this forum. I would describe the bubbles as good, but not great, and not nearly as eye-popping as some of the photos posted here.
I live in an area with w…Read more >
I've spent a few evenings and weekends mixing up batches of bubble juice, creating my first tri-string wands, and having a total blast with giant bubbles. My wife thought I was crazy at first, but when she saw a 10-15 foot tube stream by the window in our backyard she started to get my fascination with it all. I think the neighbours might have, too, as the first few large bubbles flew directly over some of their fences, and I could hear the surprise in their voices. "Oh my goodness, what is THAT?" was one response. Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No.. it's a.. gigantic soap bubble! Then "POP" and a polymer/surfactant membrane slinks down onto one of their heads and again "OMG - what is THIS?!"
Being the proud Canadian I am, I immediately launc…Read more >
Hey! I'm Chris from Canada. Nice to meet you, eh!
I'm a relatively new bubbleologist and have been having a blast so far. I just randomly stumbled into it when one day, in my office, a co-worker had brought some store-bought bubble solution in. We spent about 20 minutes messing around with it, when another colleague popped over and blew our minds by blowing a bubble into a bubble - it turns out he had done some graduate work on these types of membranes, and he mentioned to me that in some of his work, he had come up with his own bubble recipes that produced much larger than store-bought bubbles. I was fascinated, and instantly attempted to dig up some recipes online. Unfortunatley, the first recipes I found were the detergent-glycerine-wate…Read more >
Making the Cheerio Bubbler Prototype
This is the story, in pictures, of how I made my cheerio bubbler prototype. Please note that there are certainly better ways to do this and I'll build my next one differently. This one will likely have a limited lifespan. Nevertheless, it performed surprisingly well. It's really fun to fly!!!
Not pictured in this gallery but also needed are: wire cutters, light household string (cotton or cotton blend), and a hot glue gun.Read more >
Today I have an setup thats pretty ok. At least it works for me.
I use tent poles as sticks, works really well up to four pieces, after that they bend to much if the string is heavy. I try to use the original string for as long as possible but quality are never that good so they break over time. That its possible to just fold them makes them really easy to bring everywhere.
I use gems/paperclips on the ends to hook on and off my strings. Sometimes they hook into the string but not often.
I pull most of my items on this old beer carriage but I also have an backpack where I keep the tent poles. I can use the big bucket of just use the smaller on top, if I don´t fill upp the big bucket I can use it to transport water.
My strings, I try to have th…
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So after almost a year with not many experiments I hopefully now can come back to the world of bubbles.
I have been able to bubble a bit and changing some bit in my recepie but ended in no good juices.
I have found a contact in Japan thats looking into Charmy for me, it would just be fun to use it and se if theres a difference.
I have also looked into Polyvinylalcohol, as its a base ingridient of Mr. Hisao Oono´s bubble juices. I now understand how it works and why his recepie works at all.
I´m not sure what starch do to water, and how it works, need to look into that.
I have looked into making my own starch using rice flour, to see if that has anything to do with it. Have not done a blind test or even side test yet.
Hopefully this year will be …Read more >
In late summer/early Fall 2014, I was making an effort to catalog the color profile of Dawn Pro at various dilutions and with various polymers. In order to get the most meaningful profiles, sessions were only done early in the morning (after sun up) on heavily overcast days (because the indirect light gives the clearest colors). In Central California, where I live, such conditions are sporadic. As I reviewed the photos, I began to recognize that there are a number of potentially confounding issues: temperature (does the temperature influence the film thickness), flow rate, and wick characteristics. Sessions were done to explore the influence of pH on the film thickness, and I settled on pH range of 7.4-7.6 (except for those sessions done a…Read more >
Updated March 20, 2015 with 16:1 dilution pictures from March 11 session.
Ever since I first tried Uncle Bubble Ultra Concentrate, I have wondered how it would perform at higher dilutions than the standard 9-to-1 recommended by its manufacturer. To my eye, the film thickness (gauged via its Color Profile) is something along the lines of Dawn Pro at 16:1. Since, UB is based on a totally different surfactant than Dawn Pro, I have no idea how to map changes in dilution from one to the other.
I tried UB at 11:1 last week and was surprised how little of a shift there was in film thickness. The film was a little bit thicker but only subtly so.
I diluted the UB to 14:1. There was a color shift (though not as big as I expected), but bubbles became ha…Read more >
A busy life has prevented my posting (or experimenting) for a few months. On SBF recently, there was a discussion about the influence of dilution on colors. This morning it was foggy and cool (50F with 95% humidity) and I needed to clear my mind. I had a bit of guar juice left over from a session in October or November and decided to see if it was still good. It was.
I made a few bubbles with a 70" Webfoot Microfiber top-string (full-ply) and a 2-ply RubberMaid Rayon Finish Mop bottom string. The breeze was very light and 5 foot diameter bubbles were lasting up to a minute or more.
After making a few bubbles, I dumped some Dawn into the juice so that I could demonstrate the big color shift that happens when there is a lot of soap in the mix.…
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It looks kind of like a set of teeth and the fishing line I used to buildit feels like dental floss!
All it takes is diamond braid clothes line, hot glue, fishing line, and a tapestry needle. It's pretty easy to make, functions very well, and opens up some interesting design possibilities.
Diamond braid utility cord. I used 15 lb. SecureLine diamond braid clothes line.
Fishing line. The heavier the better. A certain amount of stiffness is desirable. I used Cabela's 50 lb. dacron line. Braid lines would work too. Monofilament would create problems, I'm sure.
Hot glue gun with glue.
Nail clippers. (This fishing line is tough to cut with scissors!)
Fabric marking pen (or other non-permanent marker)
I tend to torture my diamond braid …
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Last year I built a small-loop fast-wind bubbling garland. It performed well, but I have some ideas how to improve it. So now I'm disassembling and rebuilding it. In the picture the old one is on top.
It has 33 loops with approximately 3.25" (8cm) tops, plus extensions for adding 18 more loops. It's about 140" (3.5m) long with leaders, and about 210" (5.3m) with the extensions. It's made of 9 braided strands of aMAIZing corn fiber tape yarn.
Problem #1 - Loop hangups and fold-overs
I expected to have a few. I've made garlands with swivels every 2nd loop, and they're pretty reliable. But with a swivel between every 3rd loop, this garland fails to fire on all cylinders about half the time. Now I'm going all the way! Each loop gets a …
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I ask for a little help from friends soupbubblewiki, I would please the recipe to create the slurry, I have a recipe that does not use slurry:
1 liter of water 40 grams of fairy and 2 grams of guar.
with the blender the guar melt in hot water and then add the detergent.
do not use yeast baking it and bubbles are very long-lived.
the problem 'that I can not keep it more' for three days, I need a recipe to keep the slurry.
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thanks to all. saro
It seems (and I think that this has come up before over the years) that adjusting the pH of juice MAY introduce some instability of the juice is subject to cool temperatures. I don't know at this point if this only happens with juice that has been used but I suspect it may be true of unopened juice.
I just checked a dipping container that has been outside on our porch for the past month. It contained diluted eGoo that I used in a session on Oct. 11. There was white sediment. The juice still bubbled reasonably but the pH had fallen to 7.0 from the 7.6 that it started with. I added about 1/2 tsp baking soda per liter juice to bring the pH back up to 7.3 or so.
That container had been outside for a month with temperatures dropping to 40F on a f…Read more >
Have been experimenting with yarns; keep going right back to the rayon mop yarn. I love the Paton's Metallic, but still feel a great deal of the "I'm Home" sensation when I switch back to the mop yarn. However..... I played with one of my new yarns (Game Day by Loops and Threads) again late last night (1am... best time for bubbling, of course). I'd only tried it one other time and didn't love it. Fairly thin, 100% acrylic, round braid. This time I tried crocheting a loop using this yarn. I had a wonderful session with this wick! Not once was I tempted to go back to the mop yarn wick.
The loop had a 60" top string and had one row of crochet stitches. I might crochet a second row for the top string section. I got a bunch of really large bubbl…Read more >
NOTE (May 2017): This entry should really be called "PEO Waterless Concentrate". In this experiment, I was really making a waterless PEO concentrate and not just slurrying. As it turns out, detergent works well for slurrying WSR301 though it may be less convenient than usind cold dry alcohol or glycerine as a slurry liquid. You do need to add some water after you make the slurry for the PEO to stay dissolved (in suspension) for the long-term. A detergent slurry is used for my Bubble Power Powder (a video demonstration is found on its page). In July 2016, I did a number of trials using WSR301 and J-Lube in detergent slurries, and they worked well. More information in the Slurry-Detergent article.
Last night (October 14), I slurried my wsr301 …
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Полужирное начертание[[[Заголовок ссылки]
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My major bubble project of the summer and Fall has been documenting the color profile of bubble solutions made with Dawn Pro and Charmy at various dilutions. Included in the studies (which I have not yet published) have been comparisons of solutions at the same dilution but with different pH or different polymers. I have chosen 20:1 because I have really grown to like the colors and because the color profile is one that changes quite obviously when the film stretches.
Several weeks ago, I was looking at video of bubbles made guar-based and PEO-based juice and noticed that the guar-based bubbles showed the thinner "stretched" color profile earlier in their growth than the PEO solution. It was quite consistent. It occurred to me that perhaps PE…Read more >
Enjoy the video:
Testing eGoo at 12.5 to 1 (water:concentrate) under ideal conditions: 60F and 85% humidity. Loop: 48" Rubbermaid webfoot microfiber top string with two strands of deconstructed Rubbermaid rayon mop yarn as the bottom string.
This batch of eGoo used 0.25 grams per "batch" of WSR301 rather than 0.15 grams. This is fresh full potency WSR. The juice was pretty stringy BUT under these conditions worked great. With the 48" top-string and next to no breeze 35 foot closed tubes were quite easy. I did not get a chance to try with a larger loop until the humidity had fallen and the breezed started to pick up.
The goal was to compare Bernat's Baby Blanket fuzzy yarn to Rubbermaid Webfoot Microfiber. The 48" top-strings (bo…
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Time: 6:50AM PDT;
Temp: 62F; Humidity: 82%;
Still air and scattered clouds
Loop: modular with 100+ inch topstring made from Patons Classic Wool Roving loosely wound together. Bottom string: two strands of Patons Metallic Yarn loosely wound together.
This is the first use of this loop. The only preparation applied to the yarn was to soak it in water and Dawn after cutting.
JUICE: Two juices were used. Both were 20 parts tap water to 1 part Dawn Pro with 8 ml of 5% citric acid per liter of water. One juice had 1.5 grams guar gum per liter water. The other had 5 ml of BLM per liter of water. The pH was 7.6. I adjust the pH of all my Dawn-based juice to this pH in order to standardize the mixes so that I can more reliably draw conclusions based on t…
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Spurred by reports from people that are enjoying various knitting yarns for their loops, I have started revising my thoughts about knitting yarn and realizing that some are very credible wick materials -- especially for people that don't want to track down an exotic mophead and deal with the deconstructing, etc.
I have had a few very nice sessions using "Links" acrylic/wool blend which is a braided yarn that seems exclusive to Michael's craft stores. I am not ready to say that it is as good or better than the Rubbermaid webfoot microfiber, but I think it is worth trying -- especially as the top-string of a composite loop. For my taste, it is too drippy to use for both top and bottom strings. (See the blog entry about this yarn). I have use…Read more >
Darn it! and HURRAY! There are great wick materials that are easy to find and don't require a lot of work to prep. I wish I had found these yarns earlier. In today's (brief) session with excellent conditions that compared favorably to some of my favorite materials. This is only one session, but the results were good enough that I think that others should try these out.
I have had to take a break from the color profile studies that I have been doing since the sky was cloudless and bright -- which makes it impossible to get meaningful video. So, I decide to quickly test out a couple of yarns that I purchased at Michael's, a popular chain of craft stores in the U.S.
Wayne had mentioned having good luck with a pre-braided knitting yarn. I purcha…
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Recently, I have been doing sessions to better capture the color profiles of Dawn Pro and other detergents at various dilutions in order to come to a better understanding of them. Bubble colors tell us about the thickness of the soap film which in turn tells us about the surface tension of the solution and the strength of the surfactant.
Most of the recipes on the wiki assume that a detergent with similar qualities to Dawn Pro is being used. Most versions of Fairy and Dawn Ultra are similar to Dawn Pro in terms of surfactant strength. In years past, there was a product call Dawn Non-Ultra that was a favorite of bubblers. Currently, there is something called Non-Concentrated Dawn or Dawn Simply Clean, and people periodically report that it …Read more >
This entry is for tracking my ongoing exploration of PEO potency and potency changes -- comparing degraded PEO (WSR301 and JLUBE from 2010 but stored in the freezer since some time in late 2013) with PolyOx WSR301 purchased from Teacher's Source earlier this year and stored in the freezer since purchase.
See also: PEO Calibration and also May 2015: Determining PEO Strength
Note: using 1% PEO solutions, this equates to about 5 ml. of 1% degraded PEO solution per liter of water and 1.25ml 1% full-potency PEO solution per liter water. (NOTE TO SELF: double-chec this)
New PolyOx WSR301 recently received from Teacher's Source. With a 20:1 water:Dawn Pro mix, the bubbles-per-dip is over 5 with 0.006% PEO and at 0.013% PEO the juice seems overdosed. …
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I haven't had much time for bubbles. Over the last 6 weeks, I have spent a little bit of time following up on some pH issues that people have reported, revisiting some conclusions made when I first looked into pH a few years ago.
I should say that since I realized how forgiving baking powder is (while fine-tuning the guar juice recipe), I have rarely used baking soda/citric acid except during last summer's Charmy explorations the past year or so.
The pH explorations are ongoing and (given some of the erroneous conclusions that I reached earlier) will take a while before they are definitive.
I wanted to check-in briefly for those that can make use of the information.
Baking Soda/Citric Acid. The 2:1 baking soda:citric acid ratio that we have re…Read more >
IMPORTANT NOTE (UPDATE): I have eliminated the zip-tie from one side of each loop with no change to the anti foldover feature. After treating the cord the time to construct/build will vary from person-to-person--I made this one in approx. 3 hours.
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Demonstrated here are 3 EGO E-Cigarettes whith different styles of atomizer/tank tips. Each different style is modified with an identical method with the same results and with no modifications to the Ecig itself.
NOTE: It is my opinion this Ecig design is not the proper tool for producing very, very large vapor filled bubbles no matter how much you modify the Ecig itself. If you want to increase the air flow simply loosen the connection where the atomizer screws into the battery section for a tiny bit more air flow.
If making large "smoke" filled bubbles faster is your goal I recommend moving up to a modified Zero Launcher or Dragon Puffer available online through Zereo Toys, Inc. [EDWARD NOTES: This recommendation seems no longer to be a…Read more >
This demonstrations are based on the travel hoop described here. A plain PEX hoop with no covering or wrapping:
A PEX hoop with an optional ribbed sleeve:
A hoop wrapped with some rayon mophead yarn:
A wiki visitor (perhaps Burbrujo?) notes: "I have begun to wrap each section of my Travel Hoop while unassembled and attach each end with a zip (wire) tie. This way you do not have to re-wrap it everytime you reassemble it. (Note: Each wrap is approx one inch apart from the other)."Read more >
Wiki member Wayne Schmidt has been logging his explorations on his own web site. I recommend reading through his page and following his journey.
He has gone to great lengths to test a number of things including the influence of baking powder on his mix, different mop yarns, different amounts of PEO and surgilube -- and some nice videos demonstrating the importance of the right lighting situation to evaluate color. He also has succeeded in making some monster bubbles in low humidity conditions that surprised me. Super giants in 20% humidity!
I need to find time to summarize the most interesting findings here. One thing stood out as we exchanged emails during his exploration: dilution and pH …Read more >
Again, using blog for personal cloud storeageRead more >
This are my own notes for recipes and I'm using the wikia as cloud storage so I can find them. These are recipes I've copied not devised and I may have left important things out of them
Mike's "Gooey Mix" concentrate
For concentrate to be mixed with two gallons of water on site
To make the bubble juice, add two cups of concentrate to one gallon of water.
• 2 cups warm/hot tap water
• 2 cups Dawn Pro (Dawn Manual Pot & Pan)
• 7 grams baking powder (not baking soda)
• 4 grams J-Lube powder (1 gram PolyOx*)
Into a 4-cup (1 liter) or larger container pour in 2 cups of warm/hot tap water
Add the 2 cups of Dawn Pro
Add 7 grams of baking powder
VERY QUICKLY add 4 grams J-Lube powder and immediately stir briskly with a large fo…
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placeholder for recent project reports.
I'm not sure if this is the right name for these or not nor can I remember where I first saw these but they sure are nice in less than calm wind conditions. I used carbon tube for the handle as I build kites and had it kicking around. The small nuances of connector length etc make more of a difference than I first imagined. A fun project that will lend itself well to a no dip system conversion.
I've recent;y aquired a few more bubble machine and am now up to: 1 AC model, 4 battery models and 1 Wind Generated. I want to be able to put out a bubbles storm at an upcoming kite festival I plan on attending. I'm contemplateing a universal power supply and resevir for…
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